Tavira, Portugal

Grillad bläckfisk i Tavira, Portugal

We chose to spend New Year’s Eve “at home”, with take-away food and a fight against our internal clock to stay awake until midnight, a fight we lost by about an hour even though the bubble was on cooling and we woke up to the sound of bombs and rockets at midnight.
It was probably a real party yesterday because when we decided to drive to Tavira this morning, we were pretty much alone out, both in the villages and on the roads.

I read somewhere that Tavira is the most beautiful town on the Algarve coast but after visiting Faro and being quite disappointed my expectations were not very high and I admit, I was wrong. The town, which is older than old, has clear traces of Roman times and the Moors but as the simple man that I am, I chose to wander around the narrow alleys, look at the orange/lemon trees with the fruit in full bloom, enjoy the sun and above all enjoy life instead of burying myself in history. Everything here feels taken care of and if you compare it to Faro it is like night and day, of course there are abandoned houses and graffiti here too but not at all to the same extent. No matter how I turn and twist it, Tavira makes me want to just get lost in the alleys and back streets while Faro made me be a little wary of which alley you entered. There was probably a big party yesterday because when we decided to drive to Tavira this morning we were pretty much alone out, both in the villages and on the roads.

I heard that Tavira is also the octopus capital, whether it’s true or not I’ll leave it unsaid but I had grilled octopus for lunch and even though it took almost an hour to get it to the table due to a mess in the kitchen, it was worth the wait, absolutely delicious!

Albufeira, Portugal

Albufeira, Portugal

Albufeira is located in the exact opposite direction of Lagos, which was our destination for the day, so of course we headed there. A small town, built for mass tourism and according to rumors in town everyone goes here to party. We had no plans to party at all, but it might be fun to check out another village before we check out of our apartment in Armação de Pêra and drive to Lagos.

Driving in Portugal is easy, sure, there is maybe a bit more traffic than back home in Sweden but not chaos like in some countries (cough, Albania, cough) and even though they have tolls everywhere, they are smooth and above all, there is plenty of free parking. Of course there are parking garages you can pay to park in but so far we have managed to avoid having to pay for a single parking space, we like that! But enough about them, how was Albufeira?

I probably would have loved them 20-25 years ago, English and Irish pubs everywhere. Sloppy but fast and cheap food. Everything seems to be built to handle the English hordes who do their best to dry Portugal out of beer. As a 40+ man, they are not interesting anymore but I got a really good breakfast at a cafe anyway. If you look away from the central party districts, the city was clean, nice and quite cozy to walk around in and what a beach it has, wow! Would I have managed to stay here longer than the few hours I was there? Doubtful, even though it was barely lunchtime you could see how the Guinness was flowing and as I said, I am too old to hang out with drunk tourists.

Lagos, Portugal

Lagos, Portugal

New day, new city. Maybe we should have had a camper van but thanks to Airbnb we manage to keep the accommodation costs down quite well while living really well. In Armação de Pêra we lived in a super nice apartment with a sea view and now, in Lagos we have rented an even nicer apartment with a large bathroom with a bathtub, 60″ TV (what are we going to do with it?!) and a really nice patio. The location is not as good so no sea view and it is located in a “tourist complex”, the advantage of a tourist complex is however the heated pool, own tennis courts. and that all services you may need is just around the corner.

Traveling with a baby has been so much better and easier than I ever thought. He usually behaves himself, which of course makes life easier for us, but the people here in Portugal seem to really love children and it is more the rule than the exception that you see someone looking at and flirting with the little guy. Last night, however, there was a screaming party all evening and today he got up before dawn, playing around on on maximum volume of course. With the thin walls we have in the house, I just had to apologize to the neighbour when I bumped into him, but no no, it’s just fun with children. Not sure if I would have been as forgiving in that situation!

But never mind the accommodation, what is Lagos like? Well, to be honest, we haven’t really had time to explore it yet, but so far it seems very promising. If Faro is run-down and worn, Armação de Pêra for sleepy pensioners and Albufeira is for party people, then Lagos seems to be somewhere in between all three. Plenty of restaurants and pubs but not just for partying, cozy streets and alleys to get lost in and from a distance it looked like they have really nice beaches too. We didn’t visit the beach or the old town today, but rather stayed around the area around the harbour and the slightly more modern center and so far most of the indications are that Lagos could become the new favorite here on the Algarve coast

Silves, Portugal

Slottet i Silves

The youngest member of the travel party is a bit of an early bird and at 5:00 AM at the latest he thinks it’s time to get up and start playing. True to his habit, he woke up before the rooster crowed today and started playing relatively loudly and when he managed to wake us, the neighbors and their baby so that it started crying (yes, it’s terribly sensitive here) I decided to go out for a morning walk with him.
Lagos was stone-dead at that time of day and during my trip through the harbor and its surrounding areas I didn’t meet a single person, I continued towards the city and thought about visiting the fish market just when it opens. Good plan but since it’s Saturday it opens at 8:00 AM so I was almost two hours early. I continued through the old town and wandered into the residential areas so I had to use Google Maps to find my way back, all without encountering a single person. Despite the total lack of both light and people, you feel safe here and you don’t have to be afraid to take out your phone and check where the hell you are.

Once the sun had risen, I was back home and had breakfast, so we decided to go on a day trip to Silves, which is located a bit inland. Silves was previously (we’re talking a super long time ago, during the time of the Moors) the capital of the Algarve and can therefore be considered historically interesting. I personally thought it was a super cozy little village that had a mighty castle at the top, a massive church that was once a mosque (for all of you who complain about the conversion of Hagia Sophia) and a cozy little center where there was a market when we got there. The city itself is small, however, and you can go through all the sights in about an hour, add a coffee and a lunch and the day is done. The castle itself is definitely mighty on the outside but when you go inside it’s a little more meh, the archaeological museum is probably good, if you can speak Portuguese but still, I definitely recommend a visit if you’re nearby.