Sagres, Portugal

Välkommen till Sagres, Portugal

Early check-out together with late check-in at our new accommodation in Sagres gave us the opportunity to explore yet another coastal village, Portimão. Coastal village was wrong, we thought it were a coastal village but it turned out to be a city of almost 40,000 inhabitants. Once there we realize that we parked at the beach but then what? It was a really nice beach like all the other beaches we have seen here on the Algarve coast but our idea of ​​walking in yet another cozy center, narrow alleys and walkways, sitting at a coffee shop or two kind of ran out of steam as we never found any “real” center, on the other hand we found many abandoned houses, semi-modern concrete complexes and homeless people/alkis.
I realize that I had not done my research properly and I am convinced that Portimão has more to offer but at the moment it is at the bottom of the list of nice places in Portugal and we drove away as fast as we got there.

Now we are in Sagres which is as far southwest as you can get in Portugal and probably the whole of Europe? This is the exact opposite of everything we have experienced so far in Portugal and we read somewhere that you either love or hate Sagres. It is small, according to Wikipedia the village has 2000 inhabitants and there is not a fish restaurant as far as the eye can see, instead vegan cafes and surf shops dominate. Here they have signs everywhere that camping is prohibited but still one camper van after another stands in a row and we are not talking about luxury motorhomes, no here are the so-called tin houses where the contents (surfboards) are probably worth more than the cars. Here are all the signs, menus and it almost feels like everyone is starting to speak English instead of Portuguese. You go here simply to surf, watch birds and just take it easy, you either love it or you hate it.

What we’re going to do here is a good question, but we’ll take the days as they come and so far I have to say that I love the calm breeze and hippie atmosphere that surrounds the village.

Sagres Fort

Kanonerna med olika kaliber i Sagres Fort

The fort in Sagres was built in the 15th century to protect Sagres and the Algarve coast in general against Moorish pirates. The fort, which is strategically located on a cape, surrounded by approximately 30-40m high, vertical cliffs, feels impregnable from the water and one broadside after the other would be burned down by incoming hostile ships before they could land at Praia da Mareta. In addition to being a purely defensive structure, it also served as a navigation school and if it was from Lagos that many of the conquistadors started, it was here that they were trained and taught how to conquer the world. A dark time in the history of perhaps especially South America, but it still feels much better to visit a former navigation school than the old slave market that is now a tourist magnet in Lagos.

The surroundings of the fort are still impressive today, but nowadays it is not soldiers hanging along the cliff side, no, today it is Portuguese fishermen who, without any protective equipment whatsoever, balance on the cliff edge with their fishing rods. One fish after another is pulled up and I cannot help but be impressed by their fishing luck but also their courage, a fall down here would first mean a free fall of about 30-40m into the cold Atlantic waters and then being tumbled around by waves that have built up all the way from South America, doubtful if you would survive that but what do you do for fresh fish.